Wet suit heater discussion;
https://www.detectorprospector.com/foru ... or-dredge/
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Dredge Hot Water Heater
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Mythicalminer
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Re: Dredge Hot Water Heater
Hi easy goer: I read all the posted replies on this thread and all I can say is I've been building my own Heaters for over 20 years and have never been burned. I did have several close-calls - but that was before I was smart enough to add a good Water Filter in the line coming from the dredge pump... (and ever since have never had a problem).
The Heaters I've built were for smaller engines... 5.5, 6.5, 8, and 9hp. For larger engines my design could be scaled up. I noticed you are using two V-Twin 20+ hp engines... believe me, if you build Heater(s) correctly you will have plenty of Hot Water for two (or more) divers!
My Heater on a 9hp Honda gives me a 50 deg. rise in water temp at better than 0.5 gpm. When in water colder than the low 50's I have to start to close the Control Valve slowing the flow and producing hotter water. I've used mine in water near 45 degs. w/o getting chilled. Your two V-Twins should allow you to work in near freezing water and get close to 1 gpm into your suit(s).
Of course, a good wetsuit is a MUST. Biggest problem with most wetsuits is the opening around your neck... it acts as a water-pump pumping 1/2 qt. of cold water down your back every time you throw a rock. You can try Hoods with longer bibs... or even Hooded Vests.... but you still have that neck opening. The solution is to order a Custom Jacket with the Hood permanently attached (costs about $100 more and worth every penny). My Jacket has a zipper that runs from the bottom (waist) up my chest, through the neck and ends at the face opening in the hood. Cold water can't go down my back.
I build the "copper coil" type heaters... my latest holds 65 feet of 3/8" copper tubing all coiled inside a containment can 6" dia. and 10" long.
Too many factors to discuss here on How to Build, but I will say this: From my experience, cold water flowing through the tubing which is exposed to hot exhaust produces condensation... which is so acidic that it can rust through 18ga. steel in 2-3 years. None of my early heaters lasted more than 4-5 years.
Since then, I have change over to using only SS, copper, and brass in my heaters so nothing can rust. The exhaust from my heater on a 9hp Honda is about 115 degs.... meaning I am getting almost all the heat, but not quite. The exhaust from my heater on a 6.5 Honda is cold... getting all the heat (and strangely, I get the same 50 deg. rise at 0.5+ gpm).
TIPS ON COILING COPPER TUBING: We tried nearly everything to keep the tubing from flattening or kinking... we tired dry fine sand, sugar, and even melted wax... and none worked very good. With my latest heater I soldered threaded brass fittings to the ends of the roll of 3/8" OD copper tubing and then filled the tubing with water and then screwed caps on both ends with the roll submerged in a tub. Water does not compress. I was able to produce nice round & smooth coils wrapping the 3/8" tubing around a piece of 2.5" dia. copper tubing with a zillion holes drilled in it (exhaust enters inside the 2.5" dia. copper tube (far end sealed) and exits through the zillion holes and works it's way around/through 3+ layers of coils and exits out the bottom.
I've written up my plans with many photos & drawings... but can't figure out how to add an Attachment to this post. The Plans are in PDF format just under 500KB and 21 pages.
Anyone wanting a copy can write me at: mythicalmining@cavenet.com Please put Water Heater in Subject Line.
Be safe... and stay warm!
The Heaters I've built were for smaller engines... 5.5, 6.5, 8, and 9hp. For larger engines my design could be scaled up. I noticed you are using two V-Twin 20+ hp engines... believe me, if you build Heater(s) correctly you will have plenty of Hot Water for two (or more) divers!
My Heater on a 9hp Honda gives me a 50 deg. rise in water temp at better than 0.5 gpm. When in water colder than the low 50's I have to start to close the Control Valve slowing the flow and producing hotter water. I've used mine in water near 45 degs. w/o getting chilled. Your two V-Twins should allow you to work in near freezing water and get close to 1 gpm into your suit(s).
Of course, a good wetsuit is a MUST. Biggest problem with most wetsuits is the opening around your neck... it acts as a water-pump pumping 1/2 qt. of cold water down your back every time you throw a rock. You can try Hoods with longer bibs... or even Hooded Vests.... but you still have that neck opening. The solution is to order a Custom Jacket with the Hood permanently attached (costs about $100 more and worth every penny). My Jacket has a zipper that runs from the bottom (waist) up my chest, through the neck and ends at the face opening in the hood. Cold water can't go down my back.
I build the "copper coil" type heaters... my latest holds 65 feet of 3/8" copper tubing all coiled inside a containment can 6" dia. and 10" long.
Too many factors to discuss here on How to Build, but I will say this: From my experience, cold water flowing through the tubing which is exposed to hot exhaust produces condensation... which is so acidic that it can rust through 18ga. steel in 2-3 years. None of my early heaters lasted more than 4-5 years.
Since then, I have change over to using only SS, copper, and brass in my heaters so nothing can rust. The exhaust from my heater on a 9hp Honda is about 115 degs.... meaning I am getting almost all the heat, but not quite. The exhaust from my heater on a 6.5 Honda is cold... getting all the heat (and strangely, I get the same 50 deg. rise at 0.5+ gpm).
TIPS ON COILING COPPER TUBING: We tried nearly everything to keep the tubing from flattening or kinking... we tired dry fine sand, sugar, and even melted wax... and none worked very good. With my latest heater I soldered threaded brass fittings to the ends of the roll of 3/8" OD copper tubing and then filled the tubing with water and then screwed caps on both ends with the roll submerged in a tub. Water does not compress. I was able to produce nice round & smooth coils wrapping the 3/8" tubing around a piece of 2.5" dia. copper tubing with a zillion holes drilled in it (exhaust enters inside the 2.5" dia. copper tube (far end sealed) and exits through the zillion holes and works it's way around/through 3+ layers of coils and exits out the bottom.
I've written up my plans with many photos & drawings... but can't figure out how to add an Attachment to this post. The Plans are in PDF format just under 500KB and 21 pages.
Anyone wanting a copy can write me at: mythicalmining@cavenet.com Please put Water Heater in Subject Line.
Be safe... and stay warm!